The water in the Buriganga River that flows right through the heart of Dhaka is thick and looks black, like oil. The river used to be the main source of drinking water for the city and its people, but now you will not find a single sign of life in it. When I ask if there are any fish in the river, the tour guide laughs. Life in the Buriganga is unfathomable to Bangladeshis. The government has declared three rivers in Dhaka “biologically dead” due to pollution.